Hydroponics - Revision history

Michel Lamontagne at 04:54, 6 January 2023

2023-01-06T04:54:30Z

Michel Lamontagne at 04:51, 6 January 2023

2023-01-06T04:51:59Z

Michel Lamontagne at 04:36, 6 January 2023

2023-01-06T04:36:25Z

Michel Lamontagne at 04:33, 6 January 2023

2023-01-06T04:33:16Z

Jburk at 20:44, 17 December 2018

2018-12-17T20:44:08Z

Rfc: Undo revision 8048 by 109.109.212.218 (Talk)

2013-01-23T20:22:21Z

Undo revision 8048 by 109.109.212.218 (Talk)

109.109.212.218: /* External Links */

2013-01-22T22:11:56Z

External Links

Farred: Undo revision 8037 by 211.48.232.238 (Talk) undo vandalism

2013-01-22T16:20:04Z

Undo revision 8037 by 211.48.232.238 (Talk) undo vandalism

211.48.232.238: /* Advantages */

2013-01-22T16:12:51Z

Advantages

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 The liquid is held by vessels or pipes, that include a circulation system with [[automation|automatic]] renewal and filtering. All parts that are in contact with the liquid are cleaned or replaced in regular intervals.  The plants are in placed in trays, that can be stacked many layers high for increased density.  Production rates can be increased for certain  plants with multiple growth cycles per year.
-Using container shaped spaces of 40x8ft (30m2) hydroponic installation in 2023 can produce 2/6 tonnes of produce per year, depending on the crop, using an average of 200 kWh/day, or 270 W/m2.  On an area basis, yields range from 600 to 2000 tonnes per hectare, or about 10 to 20 times more than for field grown crops.
+Using container shaped spaces of 40x8ft (30m2) hydroponic installation in 2023 can produce 2/6 tonnes of produce per year, depending on the crop, using an average of 200 kWh/day, or 270 W/m2.  On an area basis, yields for suitable crops range from 600 to 2000 tonnes per hectare, or about 10 to 20 times more than for field grown crops.
 ===Advantages===

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 The liquid is held by vessels or pipes, that include a circulation system with [[automation|automatic]] renewal and filtering. All parts that are in contact with the liquid are cleaned or replaced in regular intervals.  The plants are in placed in trays, that can be stacked many layers high for increased density.  Production rates can be increased for certain  plants with multiple growth cycles per year.
 ===Advantages===
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 * Not applicable to all kinds of plants.
 * Requires artificial lighting/heating that needs to be produced by an external power source.
 ==External Links==

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 '''Hydroponics''' is the growth of plants in a liquid medium, rather than [[soil]]. Plants are often supported at the stalk, leaving the roots free floating. In other cases, roots may be supported by inorganic media, such as [[plastics|plastic]] pellets, gravel, or [[mineral wool]]. All nutrients are supplied through the liquid.
-The liquid is held by vessels or pipes, that include a circulation system with [[automation|automatic]] renewal and filtering. All parts that are in contact with the liquid are cleaned or replaced in regular intervals.  The plants are in trays, that can be stacked many layers high for increased density.  Production rates can be increased for certain  plants with multiple growth cycles per year.
+The liquid is held by vessels or pipes, that include a circulation system with [[automation|automatic]] renewal and filtering. All parts that are in contact with the liquid are cleaned or replaced in regular intervals.  The plants are in placed in trays, that can be stacked many layers high for increased density.  Production rates can be increased for certain  plants with multiple growth cycles per year.
 ===Advantages===
@@ Line 8: / Line 8: @@
 * [[Disease]] Control
 * Increased Crop Yield in terms of yield per hectare and in terms of kWh of lighting per tonnes of yield.
 ===Disadvantages===
@@ Line 14: / Line 16: @@
 * Cleaning and disposal of toxic degradation products.
 * Higher manual maintenance effort.
-* Not applicable to all kinds of plants
+* Not applicable to all kinds of plants.
+* Requires artificial lighting/heating that needs to be produced by an external power source.
 ==External Links==

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 '''Hydroponics''' is the growth of plants in a liquid medium, rather than [[soil]]. Plants are often supported at the stalk, leaving the roots free floating. In other cases, roots may be supported by inorganic media, such as [[plastics|plastic]] pellets, gravel, or [[mineral wool]]. All nutrients are supplied through the liquid.
-The liquid is held by vessels or pipes, that in some cases include a circulation system with [[automation|automatic]] renewal and filtering. All parts that are in regular contact with the liquid are cleaned or replaced in regular intervals.
+The liquid is held by vessels or pipes, that include a circulation system with [[automation|automatic]] renewal and filtering. All parts that are in contact with the liquid are cleaned or replaced in regular intervals.  The plants are in trays, that can be stacked many layers high for increased density.  Production rates can be increased for certain  plants with multiple growth cycles per year.
 ===Advantages===
@@ Line 7: / Line 7: @@
 * [[Disease]] Control
-* Increased Crop Yield
+* Increased Crop Yield in terms of yield per hectare and in terms of kWh of lighting per tonnes of yield.
 ===Disadvantages===
-While a natural soil based environment can stabilize itself, the hydroponics require technological support and regular maintenance:
+While a natural soil based environment can stabilize itself if the yields are not too high, the hydroponics require technological support and regular maintenance:
 * Artificial [[fertilizer]] and other auxiliary substances (antibiotics, cleaners, acidity regulators, etc. ) needed, which requires a chemical industry behind.
 * Cleaning and disposal of toxic degradation products.
 * Higher manual maintenance effort.
 ==External Links==
 * [http://smallfarms.ifas.ufl.edu/crops/hydroponics/hydroponic_production.html University of Florida: Hydroponic Production]
 [[Category:Growing Methods]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:44, 17 December 2018
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	* [http://smallfarms.ifas.ufl.edu/crops/hydroponics/hydroponic_production.html University of Florida: Hydroponic Production]		* [http://smallfarms.ifas.ufl.edu/crops/hydroponics/hydroponic_production.html University of Florida: Hydroponic Production]

−	[[Category:~~Agriculture]]~~	+	[[Category:Growing Methods]]
−	~~[[Category:Greenhouse~~]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:22, 23 January 2013
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	* What other auxiliary substances are needed?		* What other auxiliary substances are needed?

−	~~There are several ways that you can coosmpt for a garden and only one way that works indoors~~. ~~That way is coosmpting food scraps with worms in a worm bin or vermicomposting~~. ~~It can be done by saving your fruit and vegetable scraps and peels, eggshells, tea bags and coffee grounds mixed with shredded newspapers, leaves and some soil~~. You put this mix into a small, shallow (8 to 12 inches deep) plastic storage bin with a snap tight lid and some air holes drilled into the top and sides and some red wiggler worms (Eisenia fetida or Lumbricus rubellus). Don't add meat or dairy to the bin but do add a little water enough to make the newspaper feel like a wrung out sponge. You may need to spray it with an occasional mist of water to keep it from drying out. Getting it too wet is a bigger problem and this will make it smell and may kill the worms. You have to bury the scraps in different areas and harvest the coosmpt so that you keep the worms healthy. You can also make a tea from the worm casings that you can water your plants with. Most people keep the worm bin under the kitchen sink. Worms like it dark and between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Worm bins can be a little tricky, Its easy to get it wrong and have a smelly bin. If you have room for a garden there are other ways that you can coosmpt in a small area outdoors. An easy space saving way is to bury a plastic trash can with holes in the bottom. Dig a deep hole, down about 3 feet, Place the trash can into the hole, leaving about a foot or so exposed. Throw your food scraps and leaves into it. Cover it with a tight lid. Every time you add scraps add a shovel full of soil. When it is full leave it alone. In a year it will have produced some fine, rich coosmpt. Another space saving way is to bury your scraps between the rows of your existing garden. Dig a foot deep and cover the scraps with at least 8 inches of soil. The next year, move your rows over and plant in the buried scraps, by then it will be rich coosmpt. Another way is to have a simple coosmpt pile of scraps that you cover with dirt. You plant something like pumpkins directly in it. Many people will tell you complicated methods of coosmpting and some will try to sell you an expensive coosmpter or digester. It really doesn't matter how you do it, your scraps will eventually become coosmpt. It just takes longer if the moisture content is a little off, or if there aren't a lot of microorganisms in the soil, or if your mix of browns and greens (nitrogen and carbon) isn't perfectly balanced or if you don't mix up the contents every so often. But no matter what, it will decompose into coosmpt, and the food that you grow in it will produce healthier food for you and yours. Was this answer helpful?	+	==External Links==
		+	* [http://smallfarms.ifas.ufl.edu/crops/hydroponics/hydroponic_production.html University of Florida: Hydroponic Production]
		+
		+	[[Category:Agriculture]]
		+	[[Category:Greenhouse]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:11, 22 January 2013
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	* What other auxiliary substances are needed?		* What other auxiliary substances are needed?

−	~~==External Links==~~	+	There are several ways that you can coosmpt for a garden and only one way that works indoors. That way is coosmpting food scraps with worms in a worm bin or vermicomposting. It can be done by saving your fruit and vegetable scraps and peels, eggshells, tea bags and coffee grounds mixed with shredded newspapers, leaves and some soil. You put this mix into a small, shallow (8 to 12 inches deep) plastic storage bin with a snap tight lid and some air holes drilled into the top and sides and some red wiggler worms (Eisenia fetida or Lumbricus rubellus). Don't add meat or dairy to the bin but do add a little water enough to make the newspaper feel like a wrung out sponge. You may need to spray it with an occasional mist of water to keep it from drying out. Getting it too wet is a bigger problem and this will make it smell and may kill the worms. You have to bury the scraps in different areas and harvest the coosmpt so that you keep the worms healthy. You can also make a tea from the worm casings that you can water your plants with. Most people keep the worm bin under the kitchen sink. Worms like it dark and between 50 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Worm bins can be a little tricky, Its easy to get it wrong and have a smelly bin. If you have room for a garden there are other ways that you can coosmpt in a small area outdoors. An easy space saving way is to bury a plastic trash can with holes in the bottom. Dig a deep hole, down about 3 feet, Place the trash can into the hole, leaving about a foot or so exposed. Throw your food scraps and leaves into it. Cover it with a tight lid. Every time you add scraps add a shovel full of soil. When it is full leave it alone. In a year it will have produced some fine, rich coosmpt. Another space saving way is to bury your scraps between the rows of your existing garden. Dig a foot deep and cover the scraps with at least 8 inches of soil. The next year, move your rows over and plant in the buried scraps, by then it will be rich coosmpt. Another way is to have a simple coosmpt pile of scraps that you cover with dirt. You plant something like pumpkins directly in it. Many people will tell you complicated methods of coosmpting and some will try to sell you an expensive coosmpter or digester. It really doesn't matter how you do it, your scraps will eventually become coosmpt. It just takes longer if the moisture content is a little off, or if there aren't a lot of microorganisms in the soil, or if your mix of browns and greens (nitrogen and carbon) isn't perfectly balanced or if you don't mix up the contents every so often. But no matter what, it will decompose into coosmpt, and the food that you grow in it will produce healthier food for you and yours. Was this answer helpful?
−	* [http://smallfarms.~~ifas~~.~~ufl~~.~~edu/crops/hydroponics/hydroponic_production~~.~~html University~~ of ~~Florida: Hydroponic Production]~~
−
−	~~[[Category:Agriculture]]~~
−	~~[[Category:Greenhouse]]~~

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 * Increased Crop Yield
-nice choice for a hobby. you rellay should block light to the roots mabey pant the coke bottles (the bottom halve) black or wrap with tape. Or real good layer of black to absorb the light then a layer of white to reflect on outside. the hydro unit same thing. don't let the roots get light. i have a feeling your ph is off. i may be wrong (i didn't see any bottles of ph up and down) for hydro keep it at 5.8-6.5 and dirt 6.5-7. the algae is from light, place black plastic over it.peace
+===Disadvantages===
 ==Open Issues==